Moving to Iraq may not be at the top of expats' lists, but those who can look beyond the country's reputation may be surprised to find real opportunities, particularly in the energy and humanitarian sectors. The geography of Iraq can be beautiful in its starkness, consisting mostly of desert with regions of alluvial plains and mountains between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers.

Living in Iraq as an expat

Expats living in Iraq tend to be working either on a lucrative short-term expat contract in the oil and natural gas industries or as NGO employees. Foreigners will need to secure employment before relocating to Iraq.

Most expats will find themselves relocating to the Iraqi capital of Baghdad on the banks of the Tigris River. Expats living in Iraq are generally housed in secure compounds. Although these living arrangements tend to restrict one's freedom, most expats report feeling relatively secure. The general standard of accommodation in these compounds is comfortable and includes facilities to keep residents entertained, such as gyms, swimming pools, restaurants and shops.

Cost of living in Iraq

The cost of living in Iraq is not too high, and expats are generally well remunerated – indeed, financial benefits are one of the main reasons expats move to Iraq. Leisure activities tend to be expensive, however, and expats may also find themselves paying large sums towards utilities such as water and electricity. While rent, transport, groceries and general shopping are not necessarily expensive in Iraq, they are not exactly cheap either.

That said, the short-term work contracts that most expats move to Iraq for generally include many of the everyday costs of living, such as accommodation and transport. On top of being well paid for their work, expats will therefore not have to worry about high expenditure on living costs during their stay in Iraq. 

Expat families and children

As a result of ongoing security issues in Iraq, the expat community tends to be small and self-contained. Most governments and employers have historically discouraged employees from relocating to Iraq with their spouses and children.

While education is highly valued in Iraqi society, there are minimal schooling options available for expat children. While the number of international schools in Iraq is limited compared to the pre-war era, there are some good options, primarily in Baghdad and the Kurdistan Region.

Climate in Iraq

Expats who haven't previously lived elsewhere in the Middle East may struggle to adjust to the climate of Iraq. The country is mostly desert, where winters are cool, and summers are hot, dry and cloudless. The mountainous regions along the Iranian and Turkish borders are particularly chilly and experience occasional heavy snowfalls.

Expats considering moving to Iraq will have to consider the safety risks involved, as well as the possibility of having to leave their families behind. For those who do choose to relocate, life in Iraq could be both professionally interesting and financially rewarding, despite the challenges.

Fast facts

Population: Approximately 46 million

Capital city: Baghdad

Neighbouring countries: Turkey, Iran, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Jordan and Syria.

Geography: Located in the Middle East, Iraq is geographically diverse. There is desert in the west and southwest, rolling upland between the upper Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, the mountainous highlands of the north and northeast and alluvial plains through which the Tigris and Euphrates flow.

Political system: Federal Parliamentary Constitutional Republic

Major religion: Islam

Main languages: Arabic and Kurdish

Money: Iraqi dinar (IQD)

Tipping: Not expected, but a small tip is always appreciated, as wages in the service industries in Iraq are low.

Time: GMT+3

Electricity: 230V, 50 Hz. Type C, D and G plugs are used.

Internet domain: .iq

International dialling code: +964

Emergency numbers: Police: 104, Ambulance: 122, Fire: 115

Transport and driving: Drive on the right-hand side of the road. Public transport exists in the form of buses and shared taxis but is generally chaotic and avoided by expats.

Expat accommodation in Iraq is typically in the form of secure compounds. This aspect of relocation is usually arranged by an expat's employer.

Types of accommodation in Iraq

Due to the short stay of most expats as well as safety concerns in all major cities, it is highly recommended that expats stay in a secure compound rather than an apartment or house. Expats moving to Iraq may therefore have limited choice in terms of the type of accommodation available to them, but most find their housing to be safe, comfortable and fully furnished.

The expat community in Iraq is small, and those moving to the country have generally been advised not to bring spouses and children, which could make expat life in Iraq particularly challenging. A major benefit of living in an expat compound is the proximity to other expats, which eases social interactions. There are also plenty of facilities available to keep residents entertained, such as swimming pools, gyms and cafés.

Finding and renting accommodation in Iraq

The majority of expats relocating to Iraq will have their employer provide housing in a compound near their place of work. The advantage of this arrangement is that the employer also pays for the housing. This takes the burden of finding a home away from the expat, as well as that of paying for it. It also means expats won't have to overcome the language barriers they'd otherwise encounter in searching for and securing accommodation.

Expats moving to Iraq are generally those with secure job offers already in place. Expats often place emphasis on salary when looking for work abroad, and the money offered to Westerners in Iraq will therefore certainly make this country more of an attractive option.  

Iraq has attracted significant international investment interest, and businesspeople from across the globe have been drawn to the potential of the Iraqi economy.

Job market in Iraq

Oil has always been one of Iraq's most prominent industries. Iraq has attracted significant contracts from international oil companies, so there is a lot of scope for the country to expand its oil revenue.

The country’s construction industry is another major generator of employment, particularly for expats, as the country is in a period of rebuilding. Other sectors, such as healthcare, also offer a range of jobs.

As in many countries, English teachers are sought after, and interpreting is a viable option for expats who are fluent in Arabic, Kurdish and English.

Finding a job in Iraq

Expats working in Iraq generally arrive in the country having already secured an employment contract. It is not recommended for expats to move to Iraq with the intention of trying to find work. All foreigners require a visa to enter Iraq.

There are a number of websites focused on employment for expats in Iraq. A good starting point is sites like GulfTalent and Bayt.com. It can also be helpful to join groups for expats in Iraq on social media, as expats on the ground may have information about possible vacancies.

Work culture in Iraq

As a result of tensions in Iraq, there may be some hostility towards foreigners. It is therefore important that businesspeople in Iraq take the time to understand the local culture and etiquette and make efforts to build trust with Iraqi associates.

Business in Iraq is of a hierarchical nature, and expats therefore need to show respect to seniors in the business if they wish to be successful here. Business proceedings are also very formal, and the concept of saving face is valued. Expats should therefore also be careful not to show emotion in business proceedings. 

Those wishing to do business in Iraq will need to make an effort to gain some objective understanding of the Iraqi people. It can be helpful to take a cultural awareness course. It’s only by operating with a degree of cultural sensitivity that international businesspeople will be able to enhance their business experiences in Iraq.

The Iraqi economy has historically been affected by conflict, and doing business in Iraq is accompanied by significant challenges. Iraq nonetheless has considerable natural resources and economic potential, and international businesspeople who operate there have generally found that cultural sensitivity and relationship-building are essential to any success.

Those wishing to do business in Iraq will need to make an effort to gain some objective understanding of the Iraqi people. It’s only by operating with a degree of cultural sensitivity that international businesspeople will be able to enhance their business experiences in Iraq.

Fast facts

Business hours

Sunday to Thursday from 8am to 5pm, with a one- or two-hour lunch break. Working hours are generally reduced during Ramadan.

Business language

The official languages of Iraq are Arabic and Kurdish, but English is widely spoken in business circles.

Dress

Business dress in Iraq is formal, with suits being standard for men. Women should dress conservatively, avoiding tight-fitting styles and opting for modest clothing that covers at least the knees and shoulders.

Gifts

Gifts are not necessary in business proceedings. If invited to a colleague’s home, then a box of chocolates or a fruit basket is a good choice. Flowers may be given to the hostess. Do not give gifts that contain alcohol or pork.

Gender equality

Women's participation in the Iraqi workforce is low, and progress towards equality is slow. Expat businesswomen are unlikely to encounter local women holding similar positions, but in most cases, they will nevertheless be taken seriously by male colleagues.

Business culture in Iraq

Iraq’s complex modern history means that building trust with local business associates is particularly important. Expats in Iraq should take the time to understand the local culture and etiquette and make efforts to build trust with their Iraqi associates.

Those from countries that operate on egalitarian structures may find the hierarchical nature of Iraqi business difficult to deal with. It will be important to show respect to seniors if one wishes to be successful in Iraqi business.

Meeting and greeting people

Business dealings in Iraq are a formal affair. Only once a relationship has been established and counterparts begin to address expats by their first name is it acceptable to do likewise. Otherwise, it is best to address business associates using formal titles.

When meeting business associates, expats should greet them with a formal handshake. When greeting a local woman, men should wait for her to extend her hand before making any gesture. If she doesn’t extend her hand, a simple nod of the head and a smile will suffice. 

When first making acquaintance, Iraqi businesspeople can be blunt and will often ask probing questions when trying to establish trust with a new business colleague.

Communication and language

Arabic and Kurdish are the official languages in Iraq, but English is widely spoken in business circles. It is wise to learn some common Arabic greetings such as Assalamu alaikum (peace be with you), and its response of Wa alaikum salaam (and peace be unto you).

The concept of saving face and protecting honour is valued in Iraq. Consequently, showing strong emotions is viewed negatively. Avoid voicing disapproval, and if it becomes necessary, this should only be done privately, quietly, and tactfully.

Expat entrepreneurs should understand that Iraqis take a person at their word, so they should never make a promise that cannot be kept. In order to show commitment without making firm assurances, use terms such as "I will do my best" or the local term Inshallah (God willing).

Business negotiations

Due to the hierarchical nature of businesses in Iraq, the most senior person will take the leading role and manage business meetings. Subordinates are expected to corroborate information, provide technical assistance and give advice to their seniors in those meetings.

Expats should ensure that business agendas and information are translated into Arabic and sent to Iraqi business associates ahead of time.

Decisions are usually made by the most senior person after consulting with the relevant stakeholders and technical advisors who will be present at business meetings.

Expats may find business proceedings in Iraq to be both slow and frustrating, as interruptions are common. It is also common for Iraqi businesspeople to take phone calls during meetings. This should not be seen negatively, and expats should be patient.

Dos and don'ts of doing business in Iraq

• Do deliver on any promises made, as Iraqis take people at their word
• Don't attempt to rush Iraqi business partners into making a decision
• Do expect interruptions during meetings
• Do treat business cards with respect
• Don't show excessive displays of emotion, especially in public

Expats moving to Iraq should expect to experience elements of culture shock. Religion plays an important role in everyday life in Iraq. It's important to be sensitive to Iraqi cultural norms and make personal adjustments to best accommodate interactions with the local population.

While expat assignments in Iraq tend to be fairly short, those who make the effort to learn about local culture and engage in a meaningful way with Iraqis will find their time in the country to be a more fruitful experience.

Language barrier in Iraq

Arabic and Kurdish are the official languages of Iraq. While Arabic is the official language of business, expats will find that English is spoken among educated professionals and in larger urban centres. In some cases, expats might want to consider arranging an interpreter to facilitate important communication. It is also wise to have any official documents and agendas translated into Arabic to ensure that communication is transparent.

Expats who make the effort to learn some basic Arabic greetings will find that their efforts are appreciated.

Religion in Iraq

Regardless of ethnic groupings, the vast majority of Iraqis are Muslim. Islam informs Iraqi society by governing political, legal and social behaviour, and most Iraqis look to the Quran for moral instruction. Expats will become familiar with the sound of the call to prayer, which happens five times a day. The country comes to a standstill on Fridays, as it's a day of congregational prayer. Accordingly, the weekend for most companies falls on Fridays and Saturdays in Iraq.

During Ramadan, Muslims fast from dawn to dusk. This also means that Iraqi businesses operate on a reduced schedule. During this period, expats should refrain from eating or drinking in front of Muslim colleagues.

Family and honour in Iraq

Family is of paramount importance in Iraqi culture. The extended family is both a political and social force. Families hold their members responsible for their conduct, and any wrongdoing is thought to bring shame upon the entire family. Loyalty to the family comes before other social and business relationships.

Ongoing insurgent and militia activity across Iraq has destabilised the country, and safety in Iraq is a major concern for expats relocating to this country. Most countries advise their nationals not to travel to Iraq due to high risks.

Within Iraq, employers invest huge amounts to ensure work premises and expat housing compounds are secure. Despite this, expats should carefully consider the ongoing situation and weigh up the risks and benefits.

Terrorism and insurgency in Iraq

There is a continuing threat of terrorism throughout Iraq, and the security situation is volatile. Some areas are rife with armed conflict, and the threat of kidnapping remains high. There is a constant possibility of terrorist attacks, including bomb attacks and rocket fire, along with other forms of armed assault.

Attacks can occur without warning throughout Iraq. Extremists and both pro- and anti-government militia conduct frequent attacks on a range of targets in Iraq, including targets inside the International Zone in Baghdad. Both civilian and military aircraft approaching or departing from Baghdad International Airport have been attacked in the past. 

Attacks have also occurred against various NGOs, journalists and foreign contractors, as well as against Iraqi civilians. Although it is almost impossible to predict terrorist attacks, expats living in Iraq should be vigilant at all times and be ready to contact their country's embassy in case of an emergency.

Due to the country's volatile security situation, expats rarely opt for education and schools in Iraq. In fact, many companies specifically have policies against employees enrolling their children in local schools. Expats will usually either leave their families at home, where their children can continue their schooling, or send them to boarding school in a country with a more stable education system.

Public schools in Iraq

While public schooling in Iraq is free at all levels, it is only compulsory for children between the ages of 6 and 11. As a result of the country's struggles, however, it has been difficult to provide Iraqi children with a decent standard of education.

Schools in Iraq are poorly resourced, and buildings are in desperate need of repair. Attendance rates are low, and children often drop out of school due to safety concerns and to help support their families.

Private schools in Iraq

The public school system in Iraq doesn't supply the population with adequate education, and local parents who can afford to send their children to private schools instead. There are a number of these institutions throughout the country. 

Private schools generally offer the national curriculum. While sending one's children to a private school may be very expensive, these schools do generally have better facilities and teaching standards than public schools.

International schools in Iraq

The number of international schools in Iraq shrank significantly in the years following the 2003 invasion, although a number remain, particularly in Erbil and Baghdad. These offer foreign curricula, including those of the UK and the US, as well as the International Baccalaureate.

Although a few international schools can be found, the region's instability makes it ill-advised for expat children to attend school in Iraq. It's best that they either remain in their home country to continue schooling or opt for a boarding school in a more stable country.

Special-needs education in Iraq

While Iraq does have a number of special institutes for children with special needs, these institutes are limited – both in terms of which conditions they can help with and the extent to which they are able to help.

Efforts have been made to integrate special-needs education into mainstream public schools, and a number of schools have dedicated separate classes for students with special needs.

Generally speaking, international schools are more able to cater to special-needs children than the public system, although this typically comes at an extra cost.

Tutoring in Iraq

Home tutoring is available in Iraq through various companies or private teachers, and there are websites available online where parents can apply for a tutor for their child. 

Some international schools in Iraq also offer after-school tutoring for either groups or individual students. Children attending these schools can therefore sign up for sessions if in need of extra tutoring.

Healthcare in Iraq was once among the most developed systems in the region with several respected medical schools, a variety of advanced resources and largely accessible care. That said, the impact of the war and ongoing conflict in Iraq has had devastating effects on the country’s healthcare system. Iraq’s primary healthcare delivery, disease control system, and health research infrastructure have been shattered by the conflict.

Attempts to resurrect Iraq’s healthcare system remain hindered by the fragile national security and lack of basic utilities such as water and electricity. We therefore recommend that all expats in Iraq invest in a comprehensive international health insurance scheme that includes medical evacuation.

Public healthcare in Iraq

The public healthcare system in Iraq struggles to meet the needs of its citizens. In most urban centres, medical facilities have been rebuilt, and these are much more likely to be adequately staffed with doctors and nurses than those in rural areas.

The system faces a host of challenges including medication shortages, unreliable electricity, outdated equipment and lack of qualified staff. Hospitals have at times been affected by insurgent activity during periods of heightened conflict.

Other governments and international-aid organisations are working closely with the Iraqi government to restore basic services. Depending on where patients live and the severity of their condition, those requiring complex procedures might be taken to facilities managed by international organisations.

Private healthcare in Iraq

Iraq has historically lacked a formal private healthcare insurance system, and while a national Health Insurance Law has been passed, its implementation is limited and incomplete. In practice, most Iraqis and expats continue to rely on out-of-pocket payments.

In some instances, wealthier Iraqis may pay out of pocket to receive speedier treatment at a public facility, or opt to go to a neighbouring country for treatment. Private clinics do exist, but they tend to be small and primarily provide services for childbirths or surgeries and not general care.

Health insurance for expats in Iraq

Most expats moving to Iraq tend to do so on short-term contracts. They therefore rarely need to concern themselves with long-term medical care. In serious circumstances, expats may be able to get treatment at a facility managed by an international organisation or a local hospital. That said, in most cases, they will be evacuated by air ambulance to a nearby country where they can receive better care.

It is vital that expats moving to Iraq have a fully comprehensive health insurance plan that covers them for treatment overseas and repatriation. This is generally provided by employers as part of an expat’s employment contract. Expats should be sure to check the extent of coverage and purchase additional top-up insurance if necessary.

There are several international health insurance companies tailored specifically towards cover for expats that can be found online.

Pharmacies in Iraq

Expats on chronic medication should ensure they visit their doctor prior to relocating to Iraq to get an advance prescription for the duration of their assignment in Iraq.

If travelling with prescription medicine, expats must ensure that all medicine is in its original container. They must also carry a signed and dated letter from their doctor detailing the medicine's brand and chemical names, its purpose, as well as confirmation that the medicine is for personal use. 

As the Iraqi health system is developing, many drugs are in short supply. This means expats may only have access to the most basic medicines in Iraq.

Health hazards in Iraq

There are significant health hazards in Iraq, and expats should take adequate precautions to protect themselves. The sanitation systems are not well developed and there is a high risk of contaminated water and food sources.

Pre-travel vaccinations for Iraq

Routine vaccinations, including those for chickenpox, polio and measles-mumps-rubella, should be kept up to date. In addition to keeping routine vaccinations up to date, travellers should consult a travel health clinic or check the CDC's Iraq destination page well in advance of travel for the current full list of recommended vaccinations, as requirements and recommendations can change.

Emergency services in Iraq

Ambulances are few and far between in Iraq. Response times can be extremely unreliable, and many residents opt to travel to the hospital by taxi rather than wait. Nevertheless, emergency services can be contacted on the following lines:

• Ambulance: 122
• Police: 104
• Fire: 115

Expats with good health insurance should receive instructions from their insurer about what to do, where to go and who to contact in a medical emergency. In serious cases, medical evacuation by helicopter to a nearby country may be necessary, and it's vital to subscribe to a health insurance plan that covers this.

Iraq has long had a volatile internal security situation, and expats relocating to Iraq should not expect to travel unless it is deemed absolutely necessary by their employer. In this case, expats are typically transported by armoured vehicle or convoy, and in some industries, by helicopter.

Public transport in Iraq

There is public transport in major cities in Iraq, including buses and shared taxis, but it is not considered suitable for expats due to security risks. Train services in Iraq are very limited and slow, and are not a practical or advisable option for expats. Buses and shared taxis operate to some extent in the major cities, but these systems are unreliable and often unsafe.

Driving in Iraq

Expats living in Iraq do not often drive themselves and are typically transported by armoured vehicles, via convoy or by a local driver. Travel should only be attempted during daylight.

Military checkpoints are in operation, and if the vehicle is stopped, expats should be prepared for scrutiny and questioning. To avoid conflict or misunderstandings, expats should follow any orders given by officials.

Most expats will require a visa for Iraq, which should be applied for and arranged before any upcoming visit.

Most governments advise their citizens against all but essential travel to Iraq because of the country's volatile security situation. Expats who move to Iraq typically do so for short-term employment contracts, and in this case, the employer takes responsibility for applying for a work permit.

Visitor visas for Iraq

Foreigners generally need to secure a visa before arriving in Iraq. Most nationalities must apply online via the government's e-Visa portal, although a small number of nationalities remain eligible for a visa on arrival. Those who need to apply beforehand can either do so at their closest Iraqi embassy or online via the Iraq E-Visa system. Visitor visas are valid for stays of up to 60 days.

Kurdistan was previously administered under a separate visa system, but Iraq’s federal e-Visa portal is now the single entry point for the entire country, including the Kurdistan Region. A federal Iraq e-Visa covers travel to and from Kurdistan without the need for a separate regional visa.

Travellers who arrive at Kurdistan’s airports at Erbil or Sulaymaniyah may still be eligible for a visa on arrival, although a visa obtained this way is valid only within the Kurdistan Region. It does not permit onward travel to the rest of Iraq, and those who wish to travel across both regions should obtain the federal e-Visa before departure.

Work permits for Iraq

Expats moving to Iraq to take up a job offer will have their employer carry the burden of applying for their work permit. The employer will act as a sponsor for the expat and will need to provide a motivational letter to the Iraq Ministry of Labour and Social Affairs.

The work permit needs to be applied for before the expat arrives in Iraq and is usually renewable and valid for one year. Renewal papers should be submitted by the permit holder's employer at least a month in advance of expiry.

Iraq’s economy is still recovering from the effects of war, and consequently, the banking infrastructure is poorly developed. Services such as internet banking, ATMs and credit card facilities are rare, which has resulted in a cash-based economy. Expats might initially find the system difficult to deal with, but most expat employers provide a lot of financial support.

Money in Iraq

The Iraqi dinar (IQD) is the official currency in Iraq. It is theoretically subdivided into 1,000 fils, although inflation has rendered fils obsolete.

• Notes: IQD 250, IQD 500, IQD 1,000, IQD 5,000, IQD 10,000, IQD 25,000, and 50,000 IQD
• Coins are rarely, if ever, seen in circulation.

Banking in Iraq

Iraq’s banking system is underdeveloped and may not meet the standards that most expats are accustomed to. Despite this, there are signs of improvement.

As part of attempts at national economic rehabilitation and development, the Iraqi government has worked to encourage the presence of international banks in the country. A number of international banks have obtained licences to open branches in Iraq, while others have formed partnerships with Iraqi banks.

Iraq is a cash-based society, with transactions conducted almost exclusively in Iraqi dinars. The US dollar, once widely accepted by large vendors alongside the dinar, has been phased out of everyday cash use as part of broader government de-dollarisation efforts. Credit and debit cards are rarely accepted anywhere except at facilities found in expat housing compounds.

Due to both the challenge of opening an Iraqi bank account and the short-term nature of most expat contracts in Iraq, most employers pay their employees' salaries into their foreign bank accounts.

Taxes in Iraq

Taxable income in Iraq exists on a progressive tax scale ranging from 3 to 15 percent. Employers generally handle taxes for expats working in Iraq. Most expat contracts in Iraq operate under a PAYE (pay-as-you-earn) system, which means that expats generally receive their net wage with their income tax automatically deducted.

Additional home-country tax obligations may apply, so it's always best for expats to hire a tax practitioner who specialises in expat tax matters to ensure they remain on the right side of the law.

The climate in Iraq varies across the country. Large swathes of Iraq, including Baghdad, are stark desertscapes, which means it's bone dry and blazing hot. Northeast Iraq is more mountainous, and its higher elevation allows for cooler temperatures and more rainfall.

The desert regions of Iraq really only experience two seasons. The summer months are from May to October and are characterised by high temperatures, clear skies, low humidity and very little rainfall. Average temperatures during peak summer are around 95°F (35°C) but can reach as high as 123°F (51°C). Winters are milder with some rainfall, with temperatures typically ranging from 36°F (2°C) to 60°F (16°C). During the coldest winter nights, the mercury can drop below freezing. 

In the northeast, the summers last from June to September and, while they're generally dry and hot, they're far cooler than those in the desert region. Winters are long, cold and wetter than in other regions, with temperatures ranging between 24ºF (-4ºC) and 63ºF (17ºC).

Dust storms occur frequently throughout the year, particularly in spring and summer. The storms can reduce visibility considerably.